Makalu Lakpa scales Oceania’s highest peak, completes fourth of Seven Summits – The Himalayan Times – Nepal’s No.1 English Daily Newspaper

KATHMANDU, OCTOBER 19

A record holder Sherpa climber, Makalu Lakpa Sherpa, has successfully scaled the Carstensz Pyramid (4,884m), the highest peak in Oceania, marking a significant step toward completing the famed Seven Summits challenge.

The 14 Peaks Expedition confirmed that Lakpa reached the summit on the island of New Guinea at approximately 7:00 a.m. local time this Saturday, seizing a favorable weather window.

“Carstensz Pyramid is his fourth one of the Seven Summits,” stated Tashi Lakpa Sherpa, CEO of 14 Peaks Expedition.

Prior to this ascent, the veteran guide had already conquered Mt. Everest (Asia), Mt. Kilimanjaro (Africa), and Mt. Elbrus (Europe). His next objectives are Aconcagua in South America and Denali in North America, with Mt. Vinson in Antarctica slated as the final peak in his quest.

Lakpa’s journey to becoming one of Nepal’s most accomplished high-altitude guides began far from the world stage, in the remote village of Walung, Sankhuwasabha. His mountaineering career is intrinsically linked to Mt. Makalu, the world’s fifth-highest peak, which earned him his moniker and defined his legacy.

He first entered the mountains at 15, working as a porter for a French team trekking to Makalu Base Camp. After years of struggle and determination, his breakthrough came in 2009 on Annapurna, where his diligence as a kitchen boy impressed a South Korean climber. This led to his first 8,000-meter summit on Mt. Manaslu in 2010.

Lakpa’s prowess is most evident on Makalu. In 2022, he entered the Guinness World Records for the fastest triple ascent of the 8,485-meter peak in a single season-a feat achieved in just 16 days, with one climb completed without supplemental oxygen. By 2025, he had stood atop Makalu eight times, more than any other climber in history.

His career has not been without profound risk. In 2021, he was swept 100 meters down Dhaulagiri by an avalanche but miraculously survived. Reflecting on the experience, he said, “Sometimes you have to be strong enough to turn back. The mountains always remind you who’s in control.”

Despite the dangers, Lakpa remains dedicated to the mountains, expressing a particular fondness for the critical work of rope-fixing. “When I fix ropes, I trust my own work,” he explained. “As a guide, you also carry someone else’s life. On Makalu, I can do both-I feel at home there.”

With 22 expeditions above 8,000 meters to his name, Lakpa now focuses on his Seven Summits goal while mentoring the next generation of Nepali climbers.

His advice is born of hard-won experience: “Climb only if you truly respect and love the mountains. If you think it’s an easy way to make money, rethink it-the mountains never forgive incompetence.”

The journey from herding yaks in Walung to conquering the world’s highest peaks is, for Lakpa, a story of grit, humility, and devotion-a testament to a man who doesn’t just climb mountains, but truly belongs to them.